Day 5 (20th September) Portomarin - OS Charcots

CAFOD Questions
When you are weighted down by your burdens, what or who is it that gives you strength?
How can you be this strength to others?

The others were keen to set off early again today, but I had said I wanted to leave later. I tried to stay in bed a little longer, but found that I had been awakened and needed to get up and sort things out for the day ahead. I had a light breakfast at the hostel, but even after this it was much to dark to proceed on the journey. So I decided to have a walk around Portomarin to see more of the sites. I strolled up the main street and into square then beyond that and sat in the park for a while - still too dark, I wished I had stayed a little longer in bed! I went back to the square and a number of pilgrims were beginning their trek, but it was still dark. I went for a cup of coffee and croissants in the Cafe in the town centre, stayed there for about 30 minutes and then decided as light was just showing on the horzion I'd better begin my walk as the others had at least 1.5hrs head start. I slowly walked down the main street, took the diversion Martin had pointed me toward the day previously, towards a picturesque footbridge that was supposed to be the route of the Camino. I could see when i got there that the route was blocked and most pilgrims were walking across the road bridge.

The light was improving as I strolled rapidly up the forest path enjoying the cool air and some rather pleasing views. The path took a turn northward and opened up to show Portomarin on the eastern horizon set against the backdrop of morning breaking (see the photograph). I walked rapidly continuing to ascend, into misty cloud with no more that 100m visibility; quite a dismal day really. I pressed on thinking I must catch up as they would be so far ahead of me, little did I know that I had probably past them all in the first hour of the walk as they had got lost in the dark. It was about 9:30 when I reached the highest point of the days walk, and odly enough the half-way point of the 100mile pilgrimage, and the sun mysteriously appeared from the mist and brightened the whole place. Across the road I could see sunflowers popping their heads above the hedge and fellow pilgrims visibly delighted with the views of yellow stretching into the distant greens and then toward the white of the cloud base below us and in thew distance mountainous peaks. This lifted my spirits and made the whole mornings walk worthwhile.

I felt I should motor on from there as the heat of the sun pored through and the temperature began to rise. I raised my pace thinking "I must be a long way behind" and pased pilgrim after pilgrim treading the path. I soon past Eirexe and was striding out across fairly flat undulating countryside well in front of others the walk was becoming a trudge. It was then I heard the sound of footsteps behind me - surely no one could have caught me they were all miles behind. I turned and realized it was Laura, a Spanish girl, who I had met with her friend in the Albergue the night before last - there was a mix up over the number of beds in the hostel and we were both implicated in that. Anyway Laura had found her walking pace that day of the walk, and was very much faster than anyone else on the Camino that day and had caught me up. I increased my pace again and walked with her for a while. Before I had realized, where I was, we had past the spot I wanted to make a detour to see Vilar de Donas and had arrived in OS Chacotes 1km outside Palas de Rei (our destination for the day). It was just before mid day so we halted there for a drink. The location was nice with a hotel and resturant close by so I checked out the two Albergues available and booked us all into one of those for the night. This was a very basic Refugio - reflected in the price of €5 per person - cheapest by far but still very adequate for what we needed. Later we were to find that there had been a ruckus in the other (bigger) Albergue as some had arrived back very late and so a lot of people there had a disturbed night - so we agreed that this was the right one to choose.
The evening was pleasant and so we all walked down to Palas de Rei to the Church of San Triso for evening mass. Sylvia a lady from Chilli who's read at each of the masses we had attended took her usual spot and I had the urge to take photograh - this seemed to be very much a part of her Camino experience and I thought she'd welcome the record - you can see these in the slideshow below.
I left the church having received the customary pilgrim stamp and met up with Colin (Ilkley - Yorks) once again. We chatted for a while before I set off for my bed for the night.

The CAFOD questions came to mind that night and I realized that unexpected warmth eases my burdens, just like the sun this day lifted me after trudging the misty way. Any form of warmth will do this especially other's love for me when life get really tough. And I know what I must do too...